chinese-kitchen

Steamed Black Mushrooms
(Jing Dong Gu)

This versatile mushroom preparation is wonderful at any time, eaten as they are
just out of the steamer, or as part of a large banquet, or as an ingredient in other
dishes. They may be eaten hot or cold.

24 Chinese dried black mushrooms, about 11⁄2 inches in diameter
3⁄4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
11⁄2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
11⁄2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons Shao-Hsing wine, or sherry
2 teaspoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons Scallion Oil (page 16)
1⁄2 cup Vegetable Stock (page 14)
3 scallions, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 slice fresh ginger, 1 inch thick, lightly smashed

Soak mushrooms in hot water for 30 to 45 minutes, until softened. Wash thoroughly
and squeeze out excess water. Remove stems and place mushrooms in a steamproof
dish. Add all other ingredients to the mushrooms. Place steamproof dish in a steamer,
cover and steam for 30 minutes. (See steaming directions, page 30.)
Turn off heat and remove dish from steamer. Discard the scallions and ginger and
gently toss mushrooms in remaining liquid. Serve hot immediately, or allow to cool before
serving. The mushrooms will keep, refrigerated and covered with plastic wrap,
for 4 to 5 days.


Steamed Black Mushrooms Braised with
Bean Curd and Tianjin Bok Choy
(Dong Gu Dau Fu Kau Jun Choy)
This preparation relies upon firm bean curd, to ensure that it does not come
apart while cooking. This is one of those dishes that proceeded from my grandmother’s
kitchen, through my mother’s kitchen, to mine.
S A U C E
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
11⁄2 tablespoons Shao-Hsing wine, or sherry
11⁄2 teaspoons sugar
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Pinch white pepper
3 tablespoons Steamed Black Mushroom liquid (page 32)
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 head fresh Tianjin bok choy (Napa cabbage) washed, drained, dried,
and cut into:
4 cups stalks, cut across into 1⁄2-inch strips
5 cups leaves, cut across into 1⁄2-inch strips
6 Steamed Black Mushrooms, cut into thin strips
1⁄2 cup Vegetable Stock (page 14)
2 cakes firm fresh bean curd, cut into 1⁄2-inch strips
1⁄2 cup red bell peppers, cut into 2-inch by 1⁄8-inch strips

In a small bowl, combine all ingredients for sauce; set aside.
Heat wok over high heat for 30 seconds. Add peanut oil and coat wok with spatula.
When a wisp of white smoke appears, add ginger and salt, stir for 30 seconds. Add bok
choy stalks, stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add leaves, stir and cook for 2 minutes more.
Add mushrooms and stir mixture together.
Add stock, stir and braise for 4 to 5 minutes, until stalks soften. As mixture cooks,
toss 2 to 3 times. Add bean curd, stir and allow to come to a boil. Stir sauce, pour into
mixture and stir well until sauce thickens and bubbles, about 2 minutes. Add peppers,
stir and mix for 1 minute. Turn off heat and serve immediately with cooked rice.


Fish and Lettuce Soup
(Sahng Choi Yue Pin Tong)
This soup is adaptable to different fish. In my grandmother’s kitchen it was
made from either grass carp or silver carp, but its taste is quite good with striped
bass, halibut, flounder, sole or sea bass as well. If grass carp is the choice, use the
filleted back portion of the fish; for other fish use similar meaty filets.
M A R I N A D E
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
11⁄2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon ginger juice mixed with 1 teaspoon Chinese white rice wine,
or gin
11⁄2 teaspoons light soy sauce
Pinch white pepper
12 ounces fresh grass carp, thinly sliced
41⁄2 cups Chicken Stock (page 13)
1 slice ginger, 1⁄2 inch thick, lightly smashed
1 head iceberg lettuce, tough outer leaves discarded, washed, drained
well and shredded (yields 7 cups, tightly packed)
2 tablespoons Scallion Oil (page 16)


Mix all ingredients for marinade. Place fish in a bowl, pour marinade over, mix to
cover and allow to rest 10 minutes.
Place stock and ginger in a pot, bring to a boil over high heat. Add lettuce, stir and return
to a boil. Add fish and marinade, stir, bring to a boil. Turn off heat, add scallion oil
and stir. Transfer to a heated tureen and serve immediately.


Dragon Tongue Fish
(Soh Jah Lung Lei)
My grandmother looked forward to this special treat. As a rule she did not prefer
her fish to be fried, but even she enjoyed this crisply fried sea fish. It was always
made with the flat, sole-like lung lei. Only a sea fish would do, Ah Paw would decree,
because of its taste. It derives its “dragon tongue” name from its tonguelike
shape, wide, flat and thin. The way it was, and is, prepared is singular,
deep-fried thoroughly, so crisp that even its small fins and tail bones are crisp,
like chips, and edible. I find sole to be best for this recipe, but flounder will also
do nicely.
1 sole, 11⁄4 pounds, scales, gills and intestines removed
M A R I N A D E
11⁄2 tablespoons Chinese white rice wine, or gin
11⁄4 teaspoons salt
11⁄2 teaspoons Chinese white rice vinegar, or distilled white vinegar
1⁄8 teaspoon white pepper
6 cups peanut oil
1 extra-large egg, beaten
3⁄4 cup flour
2 tablespoons scallions, trimmed and finely sliced

Wash fish thoroughly, dry with paper towels. Place in a large dish.
Combine all ingredients for marinade and pour over fish. Rub in to coat well, allow to
rest 15 minutes.
Dry fish with paper towels. Heat wok over high heat for 1 minute, add peanut oil and
heat to 375 degrees F. As oil heats, coat fish with beaten egg. Spread flour on sheet of
waxed paper, dredge fish in it to coat thoroughly and shake off excess.
Place on a Chinese strainer, lower into the oil. Deep-fry for 3 minutes. Reduce heat,
allowing oil temperature to lower to 350 degrees F. Fry for another 4 to 6 minutes,
until fish turns light brown. If fish is too large to be totally covered with oil, ladle oil
over it. If temperature is carefully regulated, fish will not burn. Turn off heat, place
fish in strainer and drain over a large bowl. Allow fish to return to room temperature.
Reheat oil to 350 degrees F. Place fish in strainer back in oil and deep-fry for another
5 to 7 minutes, or until fish is golden brown and very crisp. Turn off heat, allow fish to
drain over large bowl, at least 1 minute. Transfer to a heated platter, sprinkle with
scallions and serve immediately.